Hope's and Howard's Sailing Adventures

The trouble with heading northwest along the Lycian coast is that the predominant winds are also from the west/northwest and they tend to curl around the coast. We have often been fooled, thinking the wind will be more favourable once we have rounded a headland only to find we are still heading into it. Since Lady Mayfair is a cutter rigged boat tacking is not so easy because of the staysail. With distances to cover, beating into the wind isn’t a realistic proposition for us. Apart from which the winds have been light. So unfortunately the ’iron genny’ has been our main source of propulsion for most of the Turkish coast thus far.

We have visited Karakaoren several times in the past. It is an easy stop, not adding much distance to the route to Marmaris, moorings are provided by the restaurant, as well as transportation via their dinghy to and from the restaurant. The water is crystal clear, perfect for a cool dip towards the end of the day to freshen up for dinner. The restaurant is wonderfully querky, run by a family and has great freshly baked bread to accompany their set menu with a choice of entrees. Too bad that Howard had no appetite due to a jippy tummy; Hope made up for it, though.

Our next stop was Ekincik, rather fitting, really because this was to be our last stop before Marmaris and it was also our second stop after checking into Marmaris at the beginning of our Turkish adventures back in 2019. On that occasion we had our friends, Jim and Tina, from Kuwait days onboard with us. They had cruised Turkish waters both in their own boat and on chartered boats over the previous 20 years so were a great help in familiarizing us with how it all worked. We ended up staying a couple of nights there, not only because we met an interesting British couple, Richard and Alix, on Missy Bear but also enjoying a bit of relaxation as well as access to water to wash some of the Cyprus dust from the boat, amongst other little tasks.

Finally, Marmaris. There was no chance of us taking a berth in Netsel marina as we have in the past due to their extortionate price hikes. (€340/night for us). There were quite a few boats of the same opinion, judging by the number anchoring off the beach as we did and the number of vacant spots in the marina. Maybe they will get the message?? Anyway, it was a very successful stop for us. Howard has been wanting to change the plastics in the spray hood for as long as we have owned Lady M. So, our first stop after visiting our rigger, Tarkan, was to the canvas guy next door. Once they looked at the state of our canvas they recommended changing both the sprayhood and bimini and they promised that they could have it all finished in good time for us to meet our friends in Kos on June 5th, and were willing to fit it in Bozburun. Sunday saw them make a template and then they got to work. Meanwhile, we scoured the chandleries for various bits and pieces, Tarkan tuned our rigging and replaced a splice in the continuous loop for furling the mainsail, AC DC managed to make the radar connect to the new cockpit chartplotter, recharge the freezer which now works the best in our ownsership and significantly improve the vacuum seal for the aft head. As the cost of fuel in Greece is likely to be significantly higher than in Türkiye we filled up. Now the price seems to be more on a par with USA prices. I was determined not to miss what will probably be my last opportunity to go to a Türkish farmers market, on Thursdays in Marmaris. I brought a wheely bag and loaded up on wonderful fresh fruits and veggies. I will miss Türkish markets when we depart. We also enjoyed reconnecting with Phil on 37Rocks over dinner at our favourite little restaurant, Ney, that is set back from the front and having a few drinks at the Baris Cafe Cocktail Bar where they too remembered us.

Since we left Kas, we have been watching Dignity of London, a catamaran, on AIS, heading the same way as us but always when we were underway, never when stopped, that is until Bozukale when they took a berth on the inside of our dock. We enjoyed comparing notes over dinner ashore that evening as well as mutual appreciation of the young, playful kittens there. I tackled a lamb shank for dinner but couldn’t do it full justice after the 8 mezzes that came before it! Missy Bear was also in Bozukale but chose to anchor at the head of the bay. We dinghied over to see them in the morning before we departed.

We spent 4 nights in Bozburun, the first at anchor and the rest in the harbour. As it turned out, just one week after the canvas guy, Atkif, made the template, he arrived to fit the new finished sprayhood and bimini. Luckily we had moved into the harbour that morning which made it much easier for everyone. Our berth was very convenient for the shops, etc. and gave us the opportunity to make some domesticated preps for our imminent guests such as filling our recently revived freezer. Osmans Restaurant was, as usual, very helpful in doing our laundry for us and putting us in contact with a local agent for checking out of Turkey as well as feeding us almost too well each night. More fun times with Missy Bear and meeting several other British folks, including Dave and Kate on Vakated. Another boat that gave us pause to reflect was a Halberg Rassey 49 sailed by a fairly elderly couple (I think she was in her 90’s) who have no intention of giving up sailing anytime soon. They had been cruising with a couple in the adjacent berth from North Wales for about 40 years. How special is that?

Today we crossed to Datça and, would you believe, we finally had a lovely sail! what bliss! We will check out of Turkey in the morning and head for Kos where we look forward to welcoming Cheryll and John joining us onboard Lady M for a while.